Crossing much of the French Riviera and dozens of kilometers of forest, you suddenly find yourself on a plateau with a breathtaking panoramic view of a corner of France rarely visited by Italian tourists. This area of the PACA, the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region, opens with a picturesque view of the Golden Islands, namely Port-Cros, the Levant Island, and Porquerolles, right at the foot of the Mauresa Massif.
Heading down the coast, we pass through a few typical villages and head to Le Lavandou, where we'll stay for a few days in a small family-run hotel on the white beach of Saint Clair, a stretch of fine sand almost a kilometer long, perfect for a relaxing family vacation.
According to Frédéric Mistral, a famous Provençal poet, the name of the town, Lavandou , is synonymous with " lavoir ," meaning washtub , which was once the tool used by fishermen's wives to wash their clothes. Other schools of thought, however, suggest that the name Lavandou derives from lavender, a plant widely found in Provence.
While Le Lavandou isn't a popular destination for Italians, it's certainly popular with the French, who occupy it almost entirely during the summer months, making it difficult to get around by car—it's best to park and forget about it. Even in the few restaurants in Saint Clair, it's best to book in advance or you risk leaving empty-handed. At these restaurants, we recommend trying the main courses, especially fish-based dishes, served fresh in a wide variety, although other more or less typical dishes are also available, from mussels au gratin to spaghetti Bolognese. For lovers of local cuisine, we recommend shopping at one of the local supermarkets, where you can buy various types of pâtés, fugasse, and other ready-made dishes, ideal for quick lunches on the boat or on the beach.
Diving
For the dives, we turned to a diving center we found online and contacted before leaving, Lavandou Plongee. The base for the activities is a restaurant located in the port of Le Lavandou, from where we set off on a large aluminum boat headed for one of the local islands. Our boat appears large and comfortable, and it certainly would be, if it weren't packed with over 30-35 divers and their equipment—far too many, at least for our tastes. Once the divers are squeezed inside the boat, order turns to chaos, equipment gets mixed up, and voices mingle with the roar of the engines, creating an indistinct hubbub of French divers, with the occasional shout from one of the guides, who calls out for some reason unknown to us, only once to point out a school of dolphins swimming around the boat, a gift from the sea that lasted a few thrilling minutes.
The main dive sites are reached in about 30-40 minutes, and disembarkation of large groups of divers occurs fairly quickly after a briefing, strictly in French, which is pointless and perhaps dangerous for those who don't understand it and might misinterpret some of the instructions. The maximum exploration time is 60 minutes, and it mainly takes place within 30-40 meters, depending on the certification. We're unsure whether guides are provided or not, because in some cases we were shown the route and explored it alone, while in other cases we were accompanied.
The colors are fantastic, especially on the wrecks, which have now become a habitat for many fish and crustaceans. Less colorful, but still interesting, are the dives along the walls of the islands. We saw plenty of sea bream, snapper, moray eels, groupers, and many other species. They say barracudas are also quite common, but we couldn't confirm that. There was also no sign of lobsters or octopuses, likely victims of fishermen.
Even in August, the water temperature is quite cold, with a recorded minimum of 13°C at around 40 meters. However, even at the surface, the impact is decidedly cool, despite having opted for a semi-dry suit, a choice we have not regretted.
What we didn't like.
-
Speaking of diving: the briefing in French, the lack of a post-dive headcount, an army of more than thirty people, and other safety-related aspects made us think that the attention to safety was more formal than concrete.
-
The crowding on the diving boat, filled with over thirty people and their equipment, is truly unbearable, and although the boat is well-organized, the available space is very limited.
-
Diving is not recommended for less experienced divers, who should at least avoid wrecks, which probably offer the best dives.
What we liked.
-
The hotel and beach of Saint Clair, with its crystal-clear water and white sand, are a true gem, offering tranquility in a beautiful corner of France.
-
Diving, especially on wrecks, is surprising for its colors, even if the depth and conditions greatly limit the duration.
-
Very suggestive views also for bicycle trips along the coast.
Conclusion.
This is a day trip that requires at least three or four days. We recommend it only to experienced divers who, like us, are passing through to break up their journey to Spain, or to those who have already visited the many excellent alternatives in Italy or closer to home. If you have more time, it's best to extend your trip to the Medes Islands.
Reproduction of the text and images in this article, even partial, is strictly prohibited without the author's consent.
