Author: Claudio Cangini
Cuba, the Isla Grande, an explosion of life, color, music, natural beauty, and architectural gems that cannot fail to impress. Walking the streets of Trinidad, Havana, or any other city or town on the island, you breathe an atmosphere unlike any other Caribbean country... and not only that! It's impossible not to be swept away by the bustling yet orderly life that animates the narrow streets that wind between colonial buildings. The friendliness and pride of belonging to a truly "special" people leave a lasting impression on the eyes and soul of those who don't stop at appearances but are able to push their curiosity and sensitivity beyond banality and ignorance. Along the roads, the orderly and "livable" traffic consists mostly of perfectly functioning cars from the 50s and 60s, and if collectors were able to purchase them, the proceeds would boost the economies of many countries... even those not far from us.
The breathtaking landscapes and panoramas do not stop on the surface but continue underwater with reefs and madreporic structures so rich in life that they will leave even the most "experienced" and "expert" divers amazed!!
Of all the areas of underwater interest off the Cuban coast, one stands out above all others for the richness of its seabed, the exceptional density of fish that inhabit it, and the environment that has developed here over the centuries: the Jardines de la Reina.
Christopher Columbus named the archipelago in honor of Isabella, Queen of Castile, after being trapped in the maze of these keys for a few days in 1494!
The Jardins de la Reina (Queen's Gardens) extends over a hundred miles inland, a chain of islands and mangroves, 50 miles offshore and parallel to Cuba's southeastern coast. It features white beaches lined with tall palm trees and all manner of tropical plants, calm lagoons bordered by semi-surfaced reefs, inhabited by reptiles such as iguanas, crocodiles, and alligators, the friendly coypu, known as Topon, and other mammals. The birdlife deserves special mention: navigating the canals through the vegetation, you can spot eagles, flamingos, herons, cormorants, pelicans, and an incredible number of other aquatic birds. Over two hundred different species of fish are present in these waters; the uniqueness and richness of this archipelago's marine life make it the most interesting area on the entire Cuban/Caribbean coast: with a biomass and density of marine life three times higher than any other Caribbean region.
From a geological perspective, Jardines de la Reina is a relatively recent formation, dating back to the Pleistocene-Holocene. The keys are highly sensitive to variations in marine weather processes because they rise less than two meters above sea level and 95% of their surface is made up of mangroves and sediments; it's therefore easy to imagine the precarious health of this incredibly fascinating ecosystem. Fortunately, the hurricanes of the summer of 2008, which devastated other areas of Cuba and beyond, did not cause any damage to the coasts or seabed here, and even today, diving along completely intact walls and reefs is possible.
The Gardens were once inhabited by families of fishermen, primarily engaged in the harvesting and trade of shellfish such as shrimp and lobster. In 1970, Fidel Castro, also a diver, visited the archipelago to monitor a conservation and protection project coordinated by Pedro Guerra, which protected the breeding and nesting areas of Eretmochelys imbricata sea turtles. Recognizing the precarious living conditions of the local fishermen, he began a project to reintroduce these families to the coast. Once uninhabited, the keys were declared a Marine Park, and all forms of commercial fishing and human presence were banned.
The almost total absence of exploitation of fish resources by humans has created a sort of underwater paradise that is difficult to find in other seabeds.
From the very first dive, you'll notice the richness of these walls, where veritable trees of black coral grow, along with enormous fans of gorgonians and bushes of whip corals. The sponge formations, from organ pipes to tangles of colonial sponges, reach incredible sizes and colors. Near the bottom, schools of yellow snapper with silvery streaks move, while in open water, compact schools of jackfish continually foray into the water. In the shelter of the numerous rugged seabed, solitary barracudas of spectacular size lie in wait, easily approachable. Within the narrow canyons that form in the coral reef, numerous families of tarpon take refuge, the unmistakable silvery catfish that are every pole fisherman's dream. At every dive, you'll encounter turtles busily plucking pieces of sponge with their sturdy beaks to feed on, as well as truly enormous groupers: some specimens have now become "historic" and an encounter with the Pastorita or the Julia will remain forever in your memory because a grouper almost two meters long and weighing 300 kg coming towards us and looking at us curiously from less than a meter away is a unique spectacle!
But the true Lords of the Jardines are the sharks, dozens of which can be encountered on every dive and there are as many as 7 different types.
They are the Silky Sharks (Carcharhinus falciformis), which can reach at least two metres in length, with a tapered shape and a pointed snout that await us on the surface under the transom (they have now associated the shape of the boat with food since the chef throws overboard the remains of the succulent meals he prepares while we are diving), they are the Caribbean (Carcharhinus perezi) with a stocky body and imposing in their size that can easily reach three metres in length, at more challenging depths you can encounter the Hammerhead sharks (Sphyrna lewini), unmistakable in their undulating advance almost as if brushing the water with their powerful tail; there is no shortage of encounters with the Grey sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhinchos) and, often on the sand, sheltered inside some cave, you can get close to calm and sleepy Nurse sharks.
The whale shark (Rhincodon typus) deserves a special mention. This gentle giant, depending on the lunar phases, regularly approaches the coast of Jardines, following the enormous schools of tuna that literally make the sea surface boil. Entering the water near this magnificent creature, sadly threatened with extinction, is a unique and truly thrilling experience.
Between dives, you can take beautiful shore excursions to the pristine beaches bordering the islands, where you can have close encounters with iguanas, coypus, and all the other wildlife that inhabits this extraordinary natural sanctuary.
There are two options for staying and diving at Los Jardines de la Reina. The first involves accommodations on a floating hotel, anchored in a tranquil lagoon and equipped with every comfort. From here, fast boats depart to take divers to the dive sites: the Tortuga. The second, more immersive and closer to the marvelous marine world of the mangroves, is a cruise on one of the comfortable liveaboards operated by Avalons, the Italian-Cuban company that manages diving operations at the Gardens.
SOME DIVES
Little Paradise
Max. depth: 20 m
From a sandy bottom at a depth of about 20 meters, enormous rock formations rise up to within 10 meters of the surface. The walls of these enormous mushrooms are completely colonized by black coral trees, gorgonians, branching sponges, and brain-shaped and elkhorn-shaped madreporic structures. Beginning the dive on the sand, you'll encounter numerous rays, and schools of striped grunts move compactly along the tops of the formations, but the real draw of the place is the groupers: dozens of them can be found, from the small Nassau grouper (Epinephelus striatus), with its beautiful brown color and yellow stripes, to the gigantic Epinephelus itajara, which can weigh up to 400 kg.
Nurse sharks, numerous and inevitable, rest on the bottom. Numerous moray eels inhabit the ravines, from the imposing green moray eels to the photogenic spotted moray eels. Numerous pairs of portly gray angelfish (Pomacanthus arcuatus) with their distinctive white spots on their snouts can also be found. Every part of the reef is inhabited by flashy or perfectly camouflaged creatures; and never has a dive site been more appropriately named.
Coral Negro I and Coral Negro II
Max. depth: 40 m
Two dive sites in the same area with similar morphological characteristics: several plateaus a short distance from each other, their summits rising between 16 and 20 meters below the surface. The view is truly breathtaking; they resemble enormous columns rising from considerable depths. The slopes of these formations are adorned with tubular and branching sponges, thickets of soft corals, purple gorgonians, and madrepores. This is the realm of large pelagics: schools of eagle rays circle in the open water, schools of jackfish move swiftly and compactly, always ready to attack any distracted fish. Sharks are omnipresent; they reign supreme! They swim calmly, patrolling their territory and often allow us to approach without fear; they are a joy to behold, their seemingly effortless swimming always possessing an indescribable charm. They accompany us throughout the dive, from the descent to the bottom to the return to the boat.
El Tunel azul
Max. depth: 50 m
For those who want to go deeper, and are suitably trained, this is undoubtedly a very unique and challenging dive. The boat is tied to a mooring line fixed at about 25 meters of depth on a plateau riddled with deep canyons and crevices. At a depth of about 30 meters, the top of the reef opens into a large fissure that forms a tunnel that descends and emerges on the vertical wall at a depth of about 50 meters. The descent is easy given the diameter of the tunnel, and when you emerge into the open, you feel as if you're suspended over a bottomless abyss.
It is not uncommon, in the early hours of the morning, to witness the passage of schools of hammerhead sharks and large Caribbean reef sharks. Encounters with pelagic fish are possible, and there is no shortage of sightings of eagle rays and large, solitary specimens of jackfish.
mangroves
A shallow dive among the tangle of submerged mangrove roots is an experience not to be missed. All the fish species in the area use the protection of the branches during their juvenile stages, and dense clumps of small finned creatures can be seen sheltering in the safe shadows of the vegetation. Numerous lobsters, unusually not burrowed, can also be found on the bottom. This is a very unique experience and undoubtedly of great biological interest. Sightings of crocodiles are not uncommon.
THE KITCHEN
The cuisine on both the boats and the Tortuga is excellent. Meals feature fish, shrimp, and lobster (although all types of meat are also available), salads, tropical fruit, and exquisite desserts.
The Group's new boat, the Avalon 1, has been in operation at the Gardens since this season.
Large interior spaces and a real “surprise” for this sea!!!
THE DIVING CENTER It has 200 12/15-liter aluminum tanks with INT connections (DIN adapters available) and 30 12-liter steel tanks with DIN/INT connections. Twenty brand-new rental equipment is also available. Ten highly experienced and professional CMAS instructors, who speak both Italian and English, accompany us in the water and are always attentive to our needs.
INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS
For detailed information on operations:
www.divingincuba.com
info@divingincuba.com
Documents
Passport valid for at least six months and tourist entry visa, which is provided at the time of booking.
Climate
The temperature stays around 25-30°C throughout the year. Between October and April, the climate is drier, while the humidity is higher in the summer months. The water temperature is always very pleasant, and a good 3mm is sufficient.
Language
The official language is Spanish, but English and Italian are also spoken and understood on board.
SPECIAL: In October 2011, a trip to the Gardens is planned, accompanied from Italy by the most expert connoisseur of that destination!
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