Author: Marco Pistoresi
Waking up early in the morning when the sun is not yet up
caressing the Egyptian sand dunes could be considered madness if
You don't do it with a specific purpose, and that day I had it! They were already
For a few years I had been dreaming of that specific dive on that specific wreck: the
famous Thistlegorm. Actually it wasn't the first time I tried to go to
visit it, in fact I had already come to these parts a few years before with
the intention of embarking for Sha'ab Ali where this imposing vessel was sunk
mercantile. And I cannot tell you how desperate I was at the news that the conditions
adverse weather conditions made diving impossible!
But a dream is a dream and must be achieved at all costs! And so here I am, with
my team of trusted friends in the hotel lobby waiting for the nice ones
minibuses running through the streets of Sharm El Sheik.
The crossing is long, about 3 hours of navigation and sleep takes shape for
many so much so that the vessel looked like a Bedouin camp. For the few
like me, there is no better opportunity to enjoy the sun than staying awake
dawn breaks over the calm Red Sea. The spectacle is intoxicating and even more
charge and the sense of adventure that transpires from this day.
The 7 o'clock coffee also awakens the souls of those who are asleep and the atmosphere is
it heats up with emotions and curiosity; you start asking for details
on sinking and diving. Our guide Barbara has always been
She has been kind and attentive in the previous days and is no exception today.
He shows us some photos and gives us historical information about the wreck, its cargo and
on how it was unfortunately sunk during an air raid in the II
World War. He explains to us that the first dive will take place outside the
wreck, with our boat anchored on the bow of the “giant”, while the
second will take place inside.
9:00 a.m., short briefing and everyone in the water!
As soon as you put the mask in the water you can see the dark figure sleeping
resting on the bottom but a few meters are enough to start distinguishing the shapes.
decades spent in the water have transformed this wreck into a real
artificial reef where you can observe practically everything. Every porthole, every
small crevices have become the refuge of every species, wherever they can
observe alcyonarians, madrepores, scorpionfish and glass fish. Looking towards the blue you can
They spot schools of Platax and Carangidae swimming freely. Even a fish
crocodile rests peacefully among the torn metal.
The ship is almost completely cut in two sections, with the bow in trim
of navigation and the stern resting on one side. As soon as we get off we head towards
the stern passing through the point hit by the bombing. There they lie upside down
two tanks now almost unrecognizable. A little further on we find some
crates with missiles still in excellent condition. Getting close is
It is still possible to read the year of production, 1929.
The tour continues and we arrive at a machine gun and a
anti-aircraft gun, the latter sadly facing downwards as if in a sign
of defeat. But the surprises on the "Gorm" never end and here in a
flash we find ourselves perched on the enormous propellers surrounded by a dozen
Scorpion Fish that, motionless in the water, seem to observe our movements.
The propeller is just over 30 meters deep and although there had been
requested not to reach the bottom, curiosity is too much. Neither I nor any of the
My companions, we save ourselves a little visit with photos under the large hull.
Finning along the promenades we arrive at the bow where we can admire two
tank cars, one of which almost completely collapsed. At one point a
sinister sound of chains seems to bring the sleeping giant back to life and the
curiosity grows. We look around trying to understand the origin of that
sound. Imagination leads us to think that soon we will hear the great
engines start and the merchantman rises to new life and all of a sudden…there
we realize that some boats have chosen to use the chain as a mooring and
the pitching of the vessel causes the metal to bang against the huge winch
weigh anchor. The anger felt at that moment is indescribable and the desire to
It was really strong to say a word to the idiot who did this! If it's true
that the years on the seabed have created this place an explosion of life is
while it is true that the metal slowly begins to give way and subject it to stress
it means further fueling its deterioration!
The time has come to go back up but not without first giving a
look at the shaft that held the bell that its discoverer, J.J.Cousteau,
brought to the press of the time to demonstrate his discovery.
The atmosphere on the boat is lively and we are all excited that we will soon be there.
We'll find ourselves walking among the submerged remains again. Whoever was here will tell me
He told wonders about the cargo of the ship and I am sure that I will not remain
Disappointed. But now it's time for a nice hot tea and a nap.
Briefing! The call makes everyone jump to attention ready for a new
dive. A few recommendations and we're back in the water with the regulator in
mouth and torches in tow, essential for thoroughly exploring the interior of the
wreck.
As often happens after 11 in the morning the electricity starts to rise and
we are forced to descend by hanging along the anchor line. The entrance is
in the aft part of the ship, from the coal storage hold. Just
inside the atmosphere is filled with magic and history and memories come to mind
grandparents' memories of the war and the heroic deeds of the fighters. Immediately
rubber boots and bullets scattered everywhere stand out to the eye. I try
incautiously touching a boot but the sea certainly did not spare him and he
It crumbles like it's made of mud in my hands. This immediately makes me
think about the fragility of what I am observing and that we must show respect
and avoid touching anything as much as possible to allow the
Thistlegorm to still give to the thousands of divers who will visit it the
strong emotions that I am feeling right now.
The tour continues finning among the remains of trucks, power generators
and motorcycles. Unfortunately, unwary hands have plundered many over the years
findings and little remains healthy. I approach the glass of one of the many
trucks and I find a soldier fish there staring at me, resting between the
Remains of the seat. Too bad I didn't have time to take a photo.
Suddenly our guide Barbara stops us and signals us to follow her one by one.
time. At this point he heads into a dark area and shows us a very narrow passage.
narrow but sufficient for a diver. We begin to pass one at a time and she
he gestures to look at the light of his flashlight which is pointed at the steering wheel of a
The van is still intact. Only later will he explain to us that it is the only healthy one.
found to date throughout the wreck and that it is not the usual round but
a corner reserved for a few trusted people.
Time is up now and it's time to go back up. While we do
the safety stop I still observe the sleeping giant there on the bottom while
the sea around me is full of thousands of bubbles from the divers that every
day they visit the wreck, the same bubbles that are slowly
deteriorating. For some years now the Egyptian government has been considering closing
access to the wreck due to the dangerousness of the structures that are starting to give
signs of weakness and being here today makes me think that I could be one
of the last lucky ones to admire its wonders.
Now the atmosphere on the boat is even more lively and everyone tells the details
of their immersion, so many that it is impossible for a single
diver can observe them all. We dismantle the equipment, tired and
smiling, while the Arabian flavours begin to filter out from the kitchen
They put everyone back in a good mood. Personally, I feel a little sad because I know
that it's time to get back on the road
Egyptian boats offer lunches based on local cuisine for a few euros
Not bad. Rice and meat are always available, as well as good fish and salads.
colorful. The luckiest ones can taste the wonderful Felafel, meatballs of
fried broad beans, which are expertly prepared by the galley cooks.
The return crossing flows peacefully on the calm waters of the Red Sea, the
desert gets dark as a warm sunset accompanies our hearts filled with
joy and emotions along the way home.
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1 comment on “Thistlegorm Wreck Dive”
The ship was not built in 1929.
Watch this 1993 documentary
https://vimeo.com/search?q=operazione+thistlegorm
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